Leasing looks cheaper month to month because you only pay for the part of the car you use. Buying costs more each month but leaves you with a car. The fair comparison is what each one really costs you over the same stretch of time, after you count what you own at the end. The calculator below does exactly that.
Type your own numbers and see the same car priced as cash, as a loan, and as a lease, with the taxes and state fees for Arizona. Nothing you type leaves this page.
| You pay | You own at the end | Real cost | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lease | ... | Nothing; you hand it back | ... |
| Finance | ... | Equity of ... | ... |
| Cash | ... | A car worth about ... | ... |
An estimate on the numbers you type, not an offer of credit or a quote from any dealership. Starting loan rates are the average new-car APR for each credit tier (used-car APR for a used car) from Experian's State of the Automotive Finance Market, second quarter 2026, VantageScore 4.0. The starting money factor, residual, and acquisition fee are starting figures only; the leasing company sets the real ones. Taxes and state fees are estimates for Arizona; the dealership's paperwork and your motor vehicle agency have the final numbers. What you own at the end assumes the car is worth the residual. Nothing you type is sent, saved, or used to check your credit.
The table under the calculator follows each way of paying for the length of the lease. You pay is everything out of your pocket in that time: cash down, the payments, and what is due at signing. You own at the end is what the car is worth then, minus anything still owed on a loan. Real cost is the first minus the second.
A lease ends with nothing to own, so its real cost is everything you paid. A loan ends with a car worth more than the balance you still owe, and that equity comes off. The car's value at the end is the residual you typed, which is the same figure the leasing company bets on.
| Lease | Buy | |
|---|---|---|
| Monthly payment | Usually lower | Usually higher |
| Due at signing | First payment, fees, and any cash down | Cash down, tax, and fees, unless they are financed |
| At the end | Hand it back, buy it, or lease another | The car is yours |
| Miles | An allowance, with a charge per mile over | No limit |
| Wear and changes | Normal wear only; changes usually undone | Your call |
| Sales tax | Depends on the state (see below) | On the price, after any trade-in credit your state allows |
How a lease is taxed decides how much of leasing's tax advantage you keep. The calculator applies the rule for the state you pick.
| How the lease is taxed | States |
|---|---|
| On each payment | Alabama, Arizona, Arkansas, California, Colorado, Connecticut, Florida, Hawaii, Idaho, Indiana, Kansas, Kentucky, Louisiana, Massachusetts, Michigan, Mississippi, Missouri, Nebraska, Nevada, North Carolina, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, South Dakota, Tennessee, Utah, Washington, West Virginia, Wisconsin, Wyoming |
| On all payments, at signing | Georgia, Illinois, Iowa, Maine, Minnesota, New Jersey, New York, North Dakota, Ohio, Vermont |
| On the price, carried in the lease | Delaware, District of Columbia, Maryland, New Mexico, Oklahoma, Oregon, South Carolina, Texas, Virginia |
| No lease tax | Alaska, Montana, New Hampshire |
It depends on how long you keep cars and how much you drive. Over the length of a lease, a well-supported lease can cost less than financing the same car, but a car you keep for years after the loan is paid off usually costs less overall. Run both on the same car above to see which wins on your numbers.
Leasing makes the most sense when you want a new car every few years, drive a predictable number of miles, and the manufacturer is supporting the lease with a strong residual or a low money factor. Buying makes more sense when you keep cars a long time, drive a lot, or want to change the car.
Usually, yes. Most leases include a purchase option at the residual value written in the contract, plus any purchase-option fee. If the car is worth more than the residual when the lease ends, buying it at the residual keeps that difference for you.
In most states, yes, because the tax is charged on each payment rather than on the whole price. In some states the tax on all the payments is due at signing, and in a few the whole price is taxed when the leased car is titled, which removes most of the difference. The table above shows how each state does it.
If you use the car for business, the IRS lets you deduct the business share of lease payments, or depreciation and interest on a car you own, under different rules and limits (IRS Publication 463). Which comes out ahead depends on the car and how you use it, so ask your tax adviser before you decide.